5 Days Course at FFANY, New York City
Next session: 16-20th July, 2012
Introduction
In the recent years the shift of the production of the US companies to the Far East factories has led to a lack of technical knowledge in the US. The new generation of the footwear professionals (those working in the field of product development and in other roles related to the product such as product management, design, merchandising, costing, planning) does not have a factory/manufacturing background. Most of the times they come from fashion/industrial design or management studies. The recent crisis has often led to a cut of travelling expenses. And the young people working in the US footwear companies often have not even visited a footwear factory. In 2007 Ars Sutoria school has decided to organize technical courses in the US geared around the needs of this new generation of footwear professionals. Few years later we have two training programs: one in Boston (with the support of Two Ten) more focused on casual/performance shoes and one in New York (with the support of FFANY) more focused on elegant/casual shoes.
Target Attendees
Profile: primary product development, but also product manager, designer, merchandiser and line builder. Experience: at least three years in the field of footwear. Exposure to overseas factories strongly advised
Focus On
Casual and elegant shoes. The course will see the presence of a specialist in shoe fitting tests.
What to expect from the course
Greater understanding of the processes of production of different types of shoe constructions and deeper knowledge of the materials used in each stage of the process. An opportunity to refocus the experience and progress in a job that requires the ability to thoroughly analyze the product and interact with professional engineers from the overseas manufacturing of sample rooms and factories
Contacts
- Wendy Sani
- Ars Sutoria
- wsani@arsarpel.it
- Liz Carroll
- FFANY
- lcarroll@ffany.org
- www.ffany.org
Detailed agenda of training topics
-
Fundamentals of shoemaking
Analysis of footwear families and glossary
- Oxford
- Derby
- Pump
- Sandal
- Clog
- Moccasin
- Boot
- Women's footwear terminology
- Men's footwear terminology
Overview of cemented construction process
- Styling
- Project
- Pattern Making
- Construction
- Manual operations
- Machine processes
Shoe constructions
- Cemented
- Blake-McKay
- Goodyear
- Stitched out
- San Crispino
- Opanka
- Moccasins
- Inside-out
- Stapled/studded
- Slip-lasting
- Strobel
- String lasting
- Direct rubber vulcanization
- Built-up
- Direct Injection
-
Components and materials (videos and pictures)
-
The Last
- Overview
- Foot shapes
- Angles and inclination
- Volumes
- Proportions
- Styling
- Last modeling
- Good fitting tips
- Last measurements
Cutting
- Manual
- Press
- Computer-aided
Upper and lining preparation
- Splitting
- Skiving
- Taping
- Backing
- Edge finishing
- Upper assembly
Upper pre-lasting and lasting
- Toe and box bonding
- Insole attaching
- Vamp moulding
- Toe box reactivation
- Lining and preparation
- Topline nailing
- Side and heel lasting
- Sanding and flattening
- Heel seat flattening
- Sanding and pounding
- Heel attaching
- Tack removing
- Delasting
Design and pattern making for shoes and boots
- Traditional by hamd
- Computer-aided
Shoe Structure: toe boxes, back counters and lasting insoles
- Toe boxes production video
- Back stiffeners production video
- Lasting insoles
- Metal shanks
- Insole reinforcements
Heels
- From idea to production
- Correct measuring
- Heel types
- Materials
- Attachment in production
- Mould
- Leather stacking
- Spraying
- Wire sprayed
- Photographic process
- Quality of heel fit
Outsoles
- Traditional cut-out leathers
- Vulcanized vs. natural vs. synthetic
- Crepe and cork
- Videos of outsole treatments
Hardware
- From idea to production
- Materials
- Copper aesthetics and costs
- Galvinisation process
-
Leathers
- Animal skin to leather
- Showcase of different hides
- Subdivision of leather
- Tickness requirements
- Splitting process
- Design and leather grains
- Primary leathers
- Reptiles and exotics
- What is CITES
Leather Tannage
- Vegetable
- Mineral
- Synthetic
- Mixed
- Aldehyde
- Oil
Fabrics / Textiles
- Weaving
- Fabrics vs. synthetics
Nesting of patterns for cutting
- Rules to save on costs
- Manual nesting videos
- Software nesting videos
-
-
Pattern making and last analysis focus
During the final day of the course there will be a deeper focus on a more advanced level of pattern making and last analysis. Hands-on demonsration will be done by instructor with partecipation of attendees.
- Draw design directly on last
- Analysis of fit problems that can arise from an incorrect last, incorrect pattern or incorrect lasting (construction) during assembly
- Example of pattern engineering
- Numerical measurements are explained more in depth
- Analysis of common quality and fit problems
- Details of shoe, sandal and eventual boot patterns are examined in order to avoid possible fit problems
Time is saved for Q/A with instructors after each topic is addressed and especially for additional isssues interesting partecipants.
Course Partners
Since 1947 in the field of leather, Ars Sutoria School keeps constantly updated and in tune with the needs and requirements of today's generation working in the footwear and leather goods industry throughout the world. More Info...
FFANY's mission is to promote and assist the common business interests of its members, who include over 300 footwear manufacturers, representing over 800 fashion footwear, accessory and related apparel brands. More Info...
Last Class Pictures
From December 5th to 9th in New York City the last session of the Ars Sutoria one-week training course has taken place with the support of FFANY.
This time attended companies like Brown Shoe, Camuto, DeerStags, ES Originals, HHBrown, Jimlar, Michael Kors, Micro Pak, Nina Footwear, NineWest, Rockport